From the April 2024 issue of Apollo. Preview and subscribe here. ‘It is hopeless for the occasional visitor to try to keep up with Chicago. She outgrows his prophecies faster than he can make them,’ wrote Mark Twain in 1883. ‘She is always a novelty; for she is never the Chicago you saw when you passed through the last time.’ What was true then is, to some degree, still true today.
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