From the June 2024 issue of Apollo. Preview and subscribe here. On the southern tip of Norway, 150km or so from Denmark, lies Kristiansand, a city of 100,000-odd people built around the Otra estuary. Connected to the mainland via several small bridges is Odderoya, a mile-long island whose rocky, forested trails contain the remnants of fortifications built at the turn of the 19th century that
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