From the July/August 2024 issue of Apollo. Preview and subscribe here. Back in the 1960s I discovered a tiny threadbare volume among my grandmother’s things called The Book of Ices (1885). Its author was Agnes Marshall, who ran a cookery school just north of Oxford Circus. To a greedy 13-year-old, Marshall’s ice-cream flavours sounded irresistible, but what appealed even more were the sumptuous
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